 |
| Long Tanid in Long Semadoh, Sarawak |
Last July, Forum Masyarakat Adat Dataran Tinggi Borneo (Formadat)
organised once more the highlands eco-challenge right at the highlands
of Borneo spanning Sabah, Sarawak and Kalimantan. This is the second in
the series whose inaugural event was conducted in 2015. The event is
supported by World Wide Fund (WWF) Sarawak since inception. Alicia Ng of
WWF Sarawak, who was on the field to coordinate the event, quoted a few
challenges in organising such events, especially being new, is how to
create and heighten the awareness of ecotourism in the Borneo Highlands,
as well as how to generate more publicity for more participation by
enthusiasts, forest lovers and trekkers alike. In supporting Formadat in
their long term objectives, she hopes WWF will achieve more mileage in
the coming years by helping Formadat to guide the local communities to
manage a bulk part of the ecotourism and to promote cultural diversity.
 |
| Overall programme of Highlands Eco-Challenge II (source: www.formadat.com) |
This round, two eco-challenge trails were featured, the short 5
days 4 nights ‘Jungle Exploration’ trail and the highlight of all
trekking packages, the 10d9n ‘Heart of Borneo Experience’ whose journey
combines four-wheel drive and traverse trekking from Sipitang in Sabah
through into Sarawak with a couple of days spent in Kalimantan villages.
The entire journey was enveloped within the highlands of an average of
1,000 metres above sea level, which guaranteed an overall chilling
experience for all. I took the short trip which covered locations Kota
Kinabalu-Sipitang-Long Pa’ Sia’-Long Semadoh-Lawas. The extended trip
has Ba’ Kelalan-Long Bawan-Long Layu-Ba Siuk-Pa Dalih-Bario added. In
addition, the latter bears the transboundary triangle that covers the
key village for each of the states. Participants for this trail gets to
experience a different culture and get additional stamp on their
passports!
 |
| Transboundary Triangle for the extended 10d9n trail (my own rendition!) |
Eco-challenge merges the ideals of
ecotourism and physical challenges. Physical challenges come in many
forms - the ability to withstand the bumpy rides on 4WD journeys,
enduring the energy-draining hiking, crossing strong undercurrent
rivers, and staying overnight in the deep forest. Ultimately, the idea
is to have the visitors to capture a long-lastingness of the overall
experience. Yet, after an exhaustive day, the participants are rewarded
with delicious local food and performances at the villages.
To allow for full enjoyment of the trips, the crowd is controlled within a suitable carrying capacity.
Carrying capacity refers to the number of persons that the site can
accommodate at any one time without disrupting the environment, and to
sustain the wilderness experience. To this end, only a maximum of 50
people were allowed to participate in the various trails in the
programme. The director of forest for Sarawak, Tuan Haji Sapuan Ahmad,
in the programme book for Heart of Borneo Highlands Eco Challenge II,
hopes participants to take special care not to cause unnecessary damage
to vegetation and fauna. The concept of “take nothing but photographs,
leave nothing but footprint” is therefore crucial for the organisers and
joiners.
Yes, leave no trace, that is.
All
joiners congregated at Kota Kinabalu’s Warisan Square for briefing by
WWF Sarawak Alicia Ng before we were “shipped off” in chartered taxis
towards Sipitang, the closest town to Sabah-Sarawak border. After lunch,
our belongings are transferred to 4WDs whereafter the journey continued
on tarmac road for another half an hour before we turned into off-road
for a long, arduous ride towards Long Pa’ Sia’.
 |
| Sipitang jetty |
 |
| Taking a break at the river (HDR-processed) |
 |
| En route to Long Pa' Sia' |
The 4WD adventure took exactly 4
hours - stopped underneath the entrance arch of Long Pa’ Sia’ a small
village of about 800, most of whom are of the Lundayeh tribe.
It was still early evening by the time our stuff were unloaded and
whilst still energetic despite the bumpy ride, we took the opportunity
to walk around to know the residents and take photos.
What
followed after was a regroup, a short welcome speech and ended with
rooms allocation at Long Pa’ Sia’ homestay before our packs are moved to
destination. All returned after a cool shower for dinner. The night was
filled with activities to the brim. Some residents as well as the crew
for next day hike joined in the fun. A round of ice break was timely to
get to know everybody including the crew. Speeches by the organisers
were next including one by the chairman of FORMADAT Sarawak Penghulu
George Sigar Sultan.
 |
| Local dishes served by the village community |
 |
| Short speech by Penghulu George Sigar Sultan |
Another highlight of the night’s event was the performance in traditional costumes by the Lundayeh residents. A safety prayer by the village pastor ended the night.
 |
| Performance by Lundayeh residents |
This
is the day everyone was looking forward to. Touted as the main thing to
do, all were more than ready, geared and bright-eyed for the hike to
the mountain range and cross border to enter into Sarawak.
As
busy as the fish market inside the community museum, the sumptuous
breakfast was followed by repacking and transfer to porters who will be
doing the hard work - the hauling of not less than 30 kg of
participants’ stuff, accommodation and food. I had a group photo
arranged and that was followed with a warm-up exercise before the flag
off, by lead guide Lait Joseph. Trekking begins immediately upon flag
off by Penghulu George Sigar Sultan.
 |
| Repacking by the assigned porters - each carries above 30 kg |
 |
| Group photo of participants and crew (organisers and porters) |
 |
| The flag off (photo credit: Tan Yeow Joo) |
After several stream
dry-cross and passing rubber plantation, we entered forest proper, at
which stage I offered to assist with any clearings needed along the way
to which first guide Welson Matius okayed me to borrow his well-seasoned
parang from Long Semadoh. We then began to meet with the forest
residents - the leeches. Apparently, some had missed the list of things
to bring which included leech socks and long hiking pants. This
translates to more “pit stops” to check up on our crawling friends. No
slow-downs notwithstanding the plentiful brown hermaphrodites; however,
the real slowdown was attributable to messy, muddy soil terrain on the
uphill slopes whereupon many parts along the now-regrown logging trail
would draw you back half a step for each forward step you make. For
non-seasoned hikers, this proved to be a struggle, adding that the route
towards the border is nothing but uneven, uphill terrain. Freelancer
journalist Evangeline Thian, commented, “for better pace of movement, it
is better to split the hikers into fast and slow groups.”
At
about 5.30 pm, we came to a standstill right at the Sabah-Sarawak
border that is without any topographical structure like the
trigonometrical station or kiosk, or border stones - most of the porters
who were ahead do not how far more to go before reaching Kayu Buda, the
campsite destination. The participants were asked what are their
preferences - to backtrack for another half an hour to settle down by
the stream but which the surrounding is still in the raw or take the
risk of expending possibly another two hours or so to trek downhill in
the dark. The decision making did not take long, as participant Tan Yeow
Joo quickly suggested to take that risk quoting it is better to have a
proper place to put up the night than a new place that needs set up. It
was then chief guide Lait Joseph caught up with his group right behind
and took the lead to bring everyone down. Daylight vanished quickly, as
usual, in any deep forest and soon twilight set in and everyone switched
on their headlamp and continued to hike through the nite over gradual
terrain for another one and a half hours downhill.
Punishing
hike but yet all made it, with a disparity of about half an hour
between the first and last hiker who reached Kayu Buda. Chan Kam Leong,
my fellow hiker during my early trekking days, said that one must be
mentally prepared and physical strength will stay intact. Six to seven
trekking hours were originally planned but up to eleven hours were
actually spent.
 |
| The shelter at Kayu Buda campsite for the participants |
Trekking
resume downhill. Along the way, we stopped to see a couple of Buaya
Tana builds and Batuh Inarit with old carvings. The downhill was
gradual, and some of us really felt it was a walk in the park. After
Batuh Inarit, we finally entered civilisation and checked out to Puneng
Trusan, the larger Long Semadoh cluster of 10 villages, where padi is
grown.
 |
| Puneng Trusan padi field |
All in all, we had trekked a total of 30 km from Long Pa’ Sia’.
Ngu Lock Nei, a marathoner from Kuching, commented that the route from
Long Pa’ Sia’ till Puneng Trusan is also suitable for trail run in small
groups at any one time without bringing any significant destruction to
the trails. We were greeted by the residents at the finishing banner.
 |
| GPS tracklog for the hiking trail |
 |
| Finishing line at the first leg of the eco-challenge at Puneng Trusan |
After tea session, kuih-muih deserts, mingling with the community
of Puneng Trusan and arrival of all participants, we were finally
transferred via 4WD to Long Tanid, still within the larger Long Semadoh,
for the night. The night was leisure - after dinner was yet another
traditional performance by the residents of the Lun Bawang tribe. In the
midst of the performance, one of them joked, “this is not what I signed
up for”, and was seen massaging his sore legs!
 |
| Performance by the residents of Long Tanid |
Day 4
Church at Long Tanid (HDR-processed)
Day 4 was the “recovery day” before the next leg towards Ba’ Kelalan by the 10d9n participants - we had simpler challenges like tree and bamboo replanting by the Trusan river. We then visited the ancestors’ burial site at Lengutan Anak Adi' - skull remains in the cave with some scattered around the area undisturbed. We were told by Balan Berauk, coordinator for Formadat, that the earlier generation of ancestors practised animism. The night before, during the performance, I managed to catch up with Balan - he commented it was high time for Formadat to promote and put Long Semadoh and the 10 villages within it on the map and to the outside world - with the aim to upgrade the economic well-being of the community through ecotourism at the same time emphasising the attractiveness, to nature lovers, of the massive and untouched, virgin forests in the area.
 |
| Bamboo replanting at a spot besides the river |
Skull remains of early ancestors at Lengutan Anak Adi' burial site
After descending back to the padi fields, we crossed a tall suspension bridge to visit the decommissioned airfield for some photography shots of the picturesque, landscape view. At noon, we settled down right by the river. Lunch dishes were cooked on the spot over a campfire. We have packed rice with dishes and soup served in the bamboo. With enough time to spent in the sunny afternoon, some took to the water to dip and swim whilst some others tried out fishing with nets.
Crossing the suspension bridge over Trusan River
A participant casting the small fishing net
We spent another night at Long Tanid and had our usual dinner at the open hall in the field and enjoyed the various performances - some participants came out to talk on personal experiences from that few days. When the itinerary for the day was over, the darker night came calling; some went back early to pack up for the next day and retired early, I and a few adjourned to the field for some night photography. Deep in the interior forests, the absence of light pollution in a well-behaved weather allowed for some great starscape photography, and “ventured” into space looking at planets and stars on our smartphone apps whilst chatting away.
 |
| Night photography at Long Tanid |
For me and two others who did the 5d4n trip, we checked out Long Semadoh to Lawas on 4wd which also took 4 hours to exit.
 |
| A banner awaits our arrival at Miri airport |
With this year’s success having tripled the number of participants as compared to 2015, it is expected more to join the third
Highlands Eco-Challenge. WWF has been very instrumental and supportive
towards Formadat’s initiative, we will see continuing assistance by them
in the event communication and running. Dr Henry Chan, head of
conservation for WWF Sarawak, who was with some of us doing the 5d4n
trail, listed a couple of key success factors - that WWF needs to
continue to work hard and hand-in-hand with governmental agencies to
support Heart of Borneo ecotourism at the same time with private sector
and corporations to provide funding support to drive further the
mission; the other significant part of the works involves working with
the logging concessionaires to have sections and stretches of the
forests permanently reserved for ecotourism purposes.
The news in Star2: https://www.star2.com/living/2018/01/31/an-adventure-challenge-in-the-highlands-of-sabah-and-sarawak-aims-to-help-save-the-forests-here. For more information on
FORMADAT, visit www.formadat.com and Heart of Borneo Highlands Eco Challenge: https://hobecochallenge.com
